Hanoi — Old Quarter

06 November morning

Wooden pedestals for your home altar

After breakfast (western style) in the hotel’s restaurant, we adjourned to the lobby to work on our journals and have met up with our guide, Hung, and await the arrival of the other members of our group.

2016.11.07.0420 Intercontinental Hotel, Hanoi, Vietnam

Our first day of walking focused on city walks through the Old Quarter of Hanoi. Truong, our local guide for Hanoi and Halong Bay described how the various guilds set up on a particular street or district. Although the city’s history dates back a millennium (founded in 1010 CE), there were few to no quaint and historic buildings in the district. However the guild/trade-focused nature of the merchants on the street remains.

Street names and trades - I spotted the ones with the bullet by the name.
Street name Trade Street name Trade
Hang Bac silver •Hang Giay paper
Hang Be rattan rafts Hang Hom coffins
Hang Bo baskets Hang Khoai sweet potatoes
Hang Bong cotton Hang Luoc combs
•Hang Buom sails Hang Ma paper replicas / toys
Hang Ca fish Hang Mam fish
Hang Can scales Hang Manh bamboo shades
Hang Cot bamboo mats Hang Muoi salt
Hang Da leather Hang Non conical hats
Hang Dao silk •Hang Quat fans
Hang Dau beans Hang Than charcoal
Hang Dieu bongs and pipes Hang Thiec tin
Hang Dong brass Hang Thung barrels
Hang Duong sugar Hang Tre bamboo
Hang Ga chicken Hang Trong drums
•Hang Gai hemp and rope Hang Vai cloth

Hanoi seemed to share a lot of chaotic nature and architecture from the other tropical city we visited — Iquitos, Perú. The buildings appear to be primarily concrete, block, and masonry, and the façades are rough and seldom “finished”. In Hanoi, the buildings seem a bit taller and there is more history apparent with the French architecture interspersed. Another aspect that both cities share is the vibrancy of the life on the streets. The streets thrum with activity and life out in the open that I haven’t observed in cities in so-called developed countries.

We stopped in a hole-in-the-wall coffee shop to sample a local delicacy, egg coffee. It was a small cup of espresso with a thick head of orange-yellow foam (the egg I think) like an exceedingly thick latte. You mix the expresso up from the bottom throughout the foam layer before consuming. It was quite tasty although a bit sweet for Mr. Lubin’s taste — he described it as drinking melted coffee ice cream.

Truong led us through the packed and motion filled streets, occasionally ducking though back alleys to illustrate the narrative of city life he was providing. All along the streets, street food seemed to be available every few paced down every block. In one particularly cruel turn, he led us through a close alley filled with street food vendors, so the fabulous cooking aromas were contained in the space - and we didn't event stop for a bite!!

Hanoi - Old Quarter
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The view out the dining room window at the Intercontinental Hotel West Lake.

Our Hanoi & Halong Bay local guide Truong.

It seemed to be graduation season in Hanoi - all these youngsters were taking group photos.

This young lady was doing a solo.

Statue of Lý Thái Tổ who moved the capital to Hanoi.

Turtle tower on Hoàn Kiếm Lake.

Another young lady posing for a picture - I joined in the photographic festivities.

A toddler driving a toy car.

This block of the street seemed to be dedicated to what looked like a local version of bumper cars.

An outdoor kitchen in a back alley.

Julie followed by Terry exiting the alley.

An example of a sidewalk food enterpise with the ubiquitous short plastic stools.

Saint Joseph's Cathedral. The cell-phone wielding man in the chartreuse sneakers amuses me.

Mr. Chartreuse Sneakers taking a selfie with the happy couple in their wedding togs.

The happy couple in their wedding togs.

Street food.

Truong providing commentary to John, Leah, Jonathan, Terry, Audra, Lynn, and Gwen.

This street specialized in items for your home altar.

More altar accessories.

Proprietor of a shop with banners.

Ceramic goods for the altar.

Wooden pedestals, again for the home altar.

Buttons for sale. This area focused on the goods needed for the manufacture of clothing.

Lace accessories.

More buttons.

Feather boas.

Looking down the street.

Paper goods were the specialty of this street.

Paper lanterns.

Electricity management seemed a bit relaxed.

Jonathan (and he's not mugging!!).

Street food in the enclosed alley - the aromas were heavenly.

More food in the enclosed alley.

More food in the enclosed alley.

More food in the enclosed alley.

Example of the 'unfinished' nature of the façades in the area.

Food stall - fresh ingredients are very important to the local cuisine.

Barbara and Julie leading Jonathan and John down the street.

Jonathan, Sheri, Tom, Barbara, and a street porter, who offered to let Sheri try the yolk on for size.

Egg coffee. Somebody called it liquid tirimisu.

The narrowness of the buildings is a result of the taxation system based on frontage.

A scooter carting three large kegs; the preponderance of scooters vs. cars is also a function of taxation.

2016.11.07.0745 Intercontinental Hotel, Hanoi, Vietnam

The induced hunger pangs were remedied by lunch at the Indochine Restaurant. I’ll leave the description to the photos.

Menu:
Appetizers: vegetable soup; banana flower salad; steamed rice pancake rolled minced pork Hanoi-style.
Main courses: fried crispy pork fillet with sweet and sour sauce; grilled chicken with tamarind sauce; stir-fried shrimp with peanut; grilled eggplant with onion and minced pork; fried rice with vegetable.
Dessert: fresh fruit and Vietnamese tea

Evidence (a/k/a lunch)
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Vegetable soup.

Banana flower salad - I got ahead of myself here.

Steamed rice pancake rolled minced pork Hanoi-style.

Fried crispy pork fillet with sweet and sour sauce.

Grilled chicken with tamarind sauce.

Stir-fried shrimp with peanut.

Grilled eggplant with onion and minced pork.

Fried rice with vegetable.

Fresh fruit for dessert.