Jonathan works on his journal during the flight to Tōkyō.
Another journey is begun. This one is a bit different from the previous travels in that I did very little of the planning, nor the initiative for it. As a result it feels a bit odd to me.
The reason for this trip is to celebrate my nephew Mason’s graduation from the University of Mary Washington. Cindy and Mike – mostly Mike – planned and organized the trip with some suggestions from Jonathan and me. Given Mike’s experience living in Japan for 5 years in four visits we’re more than happy to rely on his guidance.
When I began looking into booking our flight, we had the choice of connecting in either San Francisco or Los Angeles. It occurred to me that we could take advantage of a Los Angeles connection to stay a couple of nights and visit friends in Pasadena. So we spent two nights with Jeff and Amelia Silverman and because we were not going to be able to make it to Neighborhood UU Church on Sunday (the plane departing at 1120 meant that we had to leave for the airport at 0820), we organized a potluck August Party in May. Irene Burkner was game to host the event, Ghassan Sarkis and Kathryn Leonard ran the key errand of picking up champagne and champagne glasses, and Clarli Wilson and her daughter Chris Richards got all the paper goods and other necessities. It was so good to see so many friends we hadn’t seen since we left southern California for Saint Paul.
That evening, after dining at Smitty’s, we joined Jeff and Amelia to attend the Los Angeles Chamber Orchestra concert – we once had season tickets.
So after a pleasant breakfast with Jeff and Amelia, we headed off to the airport where we met Cindy, Mike, and Mason at gate 74 at LAX.
The flight from LAX to Narita was pleasantly uneventful. The aircraft was a new 787 with the taller windows that don’t have window shades, but use electric current to control the shading of the glass. So after they served the meal, the lights were lowered and the windows ‘shaded’ so folks could sleep. We sat in economy as United recalibrated us out of its frequent flyer program, and we used up most of our miles on the flight to Scotland last year to get business class. The flight was relatively comfortable – we sat across the aisle from each other, while Cindy, Mike, and Mason were four rows in front of us. I did pull out my U-shaped cushion for the last several hours as fanny fatigue set in late in the 10 hour flight.
Landing in Narita, we did the usual navigation of immigration and customs, the Moorman-Kings investigated getting local phones before deciding that the $400 deposit was a non-starter. We then went down to the train level to a Japan Rail office to redeem our vouchers for 14-day rail passes, and to obtain ‘Suica’, a smart card used for subway fares and other smallish transactions. Using said Suica, we hopped the train into town once Mike determined the proper station to change (Aota) to the Asakusa station.
Narita Airport is a fair distance from the city and the scenery was initially a mix of rice paddies, industry, and villages that transitioned into urban sprawl as we came into the city. The train we boarded in Aota became a subway line almost immediately – we got off after only three stops. Navigating our way out – after Mike identified the preferred exit – took us through meandering passageways reminiscent of some NYC subway stations. The trains were not terribly crowded even though it was about rush hour.
We schlepped our bags through the market and onto the small side street where Ryokan Shigetsu is located. Its quietly elegant exterior was reflected in the interior with natural finishes and simple lines that reflect the Japanese aesthetic. A ryokan is a classic Japanese inn, with (you guessed it) Japanese sleeping accommodations – tatami mats, futons, etc.
After we dropped our bags in our rooms we went out in search of a beer. We ended up at Kamiya Bar, the oldest bar in Japan (est. 1880) with a round of Asahi Premium. Afterwards we walked around the shopping district (most shops were shuttered for the day) and up to the shrine at the other end.
Mike had identified a local noodle joint of good repute that we managed to locate after a couple false starts. After a simple by satisfying meal we retired to the ryokan where Jonathan and I hit the sack/futon immediately.
Jonathan works on his journal during the flight to Tōkyō.
Mike, Cindy, and Mason waiting on the train at Narita, while Jonathan checks out posted information.
Our bedroom at the Ryokan Shigetsu.
Looking back from the window.
The view outside the window.
The Tōkyō Tower visible in the distance.
This muscular fellow is either the thunder god or the wind god.
This is the other guy.
Mason showing just how big the lantern was at the Kaminarimon Gate, which leads to the Sensō-ji Temple.
The five story pagoda on the grounds of the Sensō-ji Buddhist Temple.