Fisher-folk in rain gear.
I woke up at the usual hour (~0400). The weather had been shifting — hence the change of plans for the tour — but there was no rain when I stepped out onto the deck off the dining room.The clouds were low and the lights from Ha Long City were reflected off the clouds to the north. Sheri was also up and about, and we spent a while chatting about our travel experiences and our cats. Later Jonathan joined us as we kept vigil by the coffee machine. We noted that the rain had started and the wind picked up a bit. The sway of the boat was more noticeable as it would swing slowly from side-to-side from the anchor.
Coffee was prepared and delivered and we were joined by Alan. Jack, who had been out earlier to check on the coffee situation, returned to collect a cup for Judy, citing Truong's aphorism "happy wife — happy life".
During breakfast, the Classic IV cruised through a slalom course of karsts, weaving a leisurely path back to the docks in Tuan Chau Pier. We boarded the bus for what turned out to be a rather gloomy and morose four hour ride back to the airport in Hanoi, as our fellow walkers took advantage of the bus's WiFi for election returns. It was rather difficult for me to try to take in the countryside with electoral college vote counts bouncing back and forth across the aisle. 'Twas not a happy group, Jonathan and I included.
Prior to leaving Ha Long City we stopped at a facility, Legend Pearl, specializing in the production of cultured pearls. It was a surprisingly fascinating stop. On an industrial veranda in back overlooking the bay, several women were seated processing oysters to create the cultured pearls. Working in pairs, one technician would dissect the donor oyster for a particular tissue sample, while the second specialist would pry open the recipient oyster's shell about 3/4" and insert a spherical core made of ground oyster shells with the donor tissue into the body of the recipient. The oyster was placed in a webbed frame where they would be taken to various oyster farms out in Ha Long Bay. The brightly lit show room was about five to six times as large as the veranda where the demonstration stations were located. We selected three single-pearl necklaces with black pearls for our daughters. The sales staff were extolling the different color tones in the three selected necklaces (blue, violet and green) while to our uneducated eye and us unsophisticated oafs, they pretty much looked the same color.
The route to and from Ha Long bay went through numerous towns with a similar "not quite finished" feel to them. The population appears to be industrious with various enterprises large and small. The land was generally flat and frequently wet, although to the north of the road and villages, a forested ridge was visible. Closer to Hanoi, the roads were in better condition with multiple lanes.
Our flight to Da Nang was delayed by 30 minutes but was otherwise uneventful. The forty minute ride to the hotel went through areas that looked more modern in construction compared to Hanoi.
Fisher-folk in rain gear.
Clouds and mists over Ha Long Bay.
Oysters for pearl culturing.
Our host, holding shells of the three varieties of oysters, explaining the pearl culturing process.
Akoya produces white pearls, South Sea produces golden pearls, and Tahiti produces black pearls.
The cores used to seed the oysters.
Inserting the core into the oyster.
Meshed up and ready to take to the bay.
Black pearls produced from Tahiti oysters (Pinctada margaritifera).
White pearls produced from Akoya oysters (P. martensii).
Golden pearls (upper shell) produced from South Sea oysters (P. maxima).
More pearls.
Comparison: one golden, one white, four black pearls.
The pearl harvested in the video below.
Pairing and matching pearls for jewelry.
The finished product in the showroom.
Lotus salad with shrimps and pork.
Sweet and sour seafood soup.
Pan-fried mackerel with tomato sauce.
Steamed rice; Wok-fried water spinach with garlic.
Simmered pork belly with shiitake mushrooms.
Seasonal fresh fruit platter; Banana sago in coconut milk.
As part of our stay at the Almanity Resort and Spa we got a massage each night. So after dinner, Jonathan and I dutifully reported to the spa, the first one Jonathan and I have experienced.
We were told to wear either skivvies or swim suit and the bathrobes provided in the room. After checking in and a small glass of tea, each of us was escorted up a flight of stairs to individual rooms with a massage table. There I was instructed to change into a set of pajamas — I was going to describe them as "loose" but the top was bit small for me. The masseuse had me initially in the face down position while I peered down at a bowl with a flower in it set down below for my appreciation. Without my glasses it was a fuzzy sight. The room was lightly perfumed — ginger and lemongrass are what I vaguely remember. There was a loop of new age music playing softly in the background and my nose started to itch. As she started with the soles of my feet and toes, that itchy nose just would not stop. Finally, as she worked her way up the back of my thighs,I turned my head and rubbed my nose against the towels lining the face hole in the table. Attention was paid to each side of the spine up to the shoulders and neck before I was instructed to lie on my back and she started on my toes and feet again. The knees were a bit iffy, but otherwise it was a pleasant experience with a repeat scheduled the following evening.