Sunrise at Sol y Luna.
So we got up early to meet Ruben and Romulo at 0700 and catch the train to Aguas Callientes. We met Melissa and Steve at reception and let them ahead of us to check out first as they had an 0645 departure. Turns out Ruben and Romulo arrived first and we beat them to the train station at Ollantaytambo. Their train left 15 minutes before ours, but our train had the “vista dome” cars.
I think that the train trip is possibly one of the signature train rides in the world as the tracks hug the banks of the river as it flows northeast threading between the sheer mountainsides of the Andes. The vegetation shifts from the upland savannah and dryer clime into the cloud forest that will eventually transition again into the lowland Amazon forest/jungle.
Aguas Callientes (or sometimes called Machu Picchu Pueblo) sits at the base of several towering peaks with the river roaring by on one side. Being the tail end of rainy season the river was quite vigorous.
The train squeezed into the station at Aguas Callientes where we did some rearranging of our packs – sending my back pack with the fleece jackets on to the hotel while we kept Jonathan’s – with the Ziploc bags, lenses, etc. – with us for the bus ride up to Machu Picchu. We had left our rollerboard suitcases with Romulo to take back to Cusco as the train only allowed one piece of luggage, and had packed a change of clothing into the backpacks.
The train station exits into a warren of market stalls as Ruben threaded his way through them to the pedestrian bridge and then down to the sidewalk to the bus stop where we queued up to board.
Sunrise at Sol y Luna.
Medallion of Peru Rail - this was on the train that left before ours.
Our train coming into the station.
The mountains with a headdress of clouds.
Río Vilcanota.
Coffee and pastries were served.
Note the vegetation has been changing. Aguas Callientes and Machu Picchu are in a cloud forest region.
The dirt road that these busses navigate up the face of the mountain is epic for the views and the sheer drop. On the way down, I made a point not to look out too much at the drop as the bus would occasionally pull into a siding when meeting a bus going the opposite direction. Eventually we reached the bus terminal at the top where a goodly number of tourists we milling around the plaza. As we lined up, I heard someone say “it’s just like Disneyland!”
The previous day Jonathan and I had talked about the upcoming visit with the concern that after seeing all the other sites, that we would be let down with the “just another temple” syndrome. The location pretty much blew that concern out of the water.
The views were spectacular as the photos will only partially demonstrate as I don’t think photography will do the site justice. Ruben pointed out various features of the site, that may or may not register permanently in my memory (hopefully the photos will jog them forth once more).
I was glad to have our walking sticks as the stone stairways were irregular and later wet as the rain moved in.
We had very nice sun for the first two-thirds of the visit but the rain was visible as it moved down the valley from Aguas Callientes. The cameras went into the Ziploc bags and we used our iPhones for photography for the duration.
Disneyland? It didn't take us that long to clear the entry.
Looking down at the bridge we crossed to get up here.
The Sun Gate - we didn't hike up there. Jonathan was taking advantage of his 'geezer-hood' to nix that idea.
A bromeliad standing sentinel in the ruins.
Showing some of the steps we navigated.
Looking westward.
Waynu Picchu - note the hikers at the very top. The paths are quite steep and vertigo-inducing, so we didn't go.
Ruben points out features for Jonathan. The peak above Jonathan's head is Waynu Picchu.
Heading across the agricultural terraces.
Zone of the ñustas (princesses) according to Wikipedia.
Temple of the Sun.
Jonathan pauses for a snap - note the incline of the hill behind him.
Agricultural terraces.
Cave beneath the Temple of the Sun.
Another look back towards the entrance.
House of the Guardians.
Temple of the Sun.
House of the Guardians.
XXXX
The rains start to move in.
A variety of orchid.
Qantu.
The Inti Watana is up there.
More flowers, this time with a yellow and black beetle.
Yellow begonia.
Coca plant. The tea uses the leaves.
Temple of the Three windows. The important buildings used larger stones, and had finer fitting of those stones.
More rain.
I took this shot for the sagging at the right side.
Looking out the back side of the citadel. The river loops around the site, surrounding it on three sides.
The Inti Watana - essentially a sun-dial.
Another shot of Waynu Picchu.
Looking eastward across the citadel to the Sun Gate.
We exited the park and made our way to the restaurant at the plaza at the Sanctuary Hotel. Our timing wasn’t so hot as a huge tourist group of about 200 had just gone into the buffet. However Ruben negotiated with the hostess, and after waiting about 5 or so minutes, we were seated in the hotel’s other dining room while maintaining buffet privileges. The buffet was excellent – the grouper was perfect and Jonathan enjoyed the stuffed peppers/chilies. Our rain gear was draped and dripped over the back of our chairs as we dined.
As I mentioned the bus ride down from Machu Picchu (as well as up) can be a bit harrowing if you have a touch of vertigo. But these drivers know what they’re doing and do it day-in and day-out.
Ruben walked us back to our hotel, the Inkaterra Lodge, on the up-river end of Aguas Callientes. After getting us through the rituals of check-in, we bid Ruben farewell as we’re on our own for the next 24 or so hours.
The bellhop carried our bags (back packs) to our room and we promptly took naps. Getting up a little before 1600 we headed for the bar where a pair of complimentary Pisco Sours awaited us. Jonathan got distracted by the coffee pot set up in the bar so I had to wait for my drink, and then Melissa and Steve walked in and we compared notes on our experiences of the day and plans for tomorrow. As they left us to our journaling, Jonathan went to the bar to collect our drinks. As we sit here off the bar, the noise from the comings and goings of the trains on the tracks below are clearly audible.
Dinner in the hotel restaurant was included, and we selected the 1800 seating. So upon completion of our journal entries, we took a seat in the dining room. We both had appetizers of trout tartare over cold spicy yellow potato purée with avocado and quinoa chips. My main was a corn and quinoa soufflé while Jonathan had a wild mushroom risotto. We both decided to pass on the confit guinea pig with white corn and orange sauce, although it sounded interesting. For dessert I had the fresh fruit selection and Jonathan got three scoops of passion fruit ice cream drizzled with dark chocolate.
Our room at the Inkaterra. That lump in the leftmost bed is Jonathan taking a nap.
I spotted this pair of ceramic figures gracing the roofline on the building next to ours (the spa).
Jonathan + camera = mugging.
Entrance to the main lobby/bar/restaurant. The front desk was elsewhere.
Waiting for the restaurant to open.
The restaurant.
Evidence, appetizer: smoked trout tartare over cold spicy yellow potato purée with avocado and quinoa chips.
Steve and Melissa. The mis-set ISO on my camera made this shot less that I was hoping for.
Evidence, dessert: Passionfruit ice cream drizzled with chocolate.
