Naomh Pól | Din Eidyn

Saint Paul | Edinburgh

01-02 May

Writing 2013.05.01.1555 EWR United Lounge, Newark NJ

The first leg of travel has been successfully navigated. I had rebooked the MSP-EWR leg of reservation to an earlier flight when it looked like there would be delays due to the furloughs of air traffic controllers, and a 2-hour layover began to look tight. However Congress, in its self-interested wisdom, actually took action to end the furloughs. So no delays and we sit in the United lounge from about 1500 to our departure at 1955.

Per our normal practice, I’ve done the planning, organizing, and research into our travel and accommodations. We spend tomorrow/Thursday night in Edinburgh and take the train to Inverness Friday morning to meet up with the tour outside the town Friday evening.

Our time in Edinburgh gives me time to arrange for a “kilt hire”. The last two nights of the tour are on the Royal Scotsman train, which encourages guest to dress up – jacket and tie minimum, kilts recommended. There was nothing in the Country Walkers’ literature about this – I got it off the Royal Scotsman website. So for the past few days I’ve been calling and emailing to figure out how the rent a kilt. So tomorrow we’ll go looking for Kinloch Anderson to go get fitted for some Highland style and arrange delivery to the train.

In the meantime we wait for our flight.

2013.05.02.1925 Ibis Hotel, Edinburgh, Scotland

The flight to Edinburgh was delayed an hour; a combination of longer than expected work to turn around the aircraft and twenty other flights ahead of us on the tarmac. Otherwise the flight was pleasantly uneventful. The 757 we were on had the new full recline seats with power and USB connections. I surprised myself by actually getting a few hours sleep.

Navigation through the Edinburgh airport was rapid, our bag was already on the carousel, and the bus into town arrived shortly after we queued up. The airport bus drops you off at the main (Waverly) rail station in town, and I had selected our hotels (both coming and going) for their proximity to the station. What I hadn’t counted on was the rolling geography of the city. The rail station is nestled in a valley and our hotel(s) ar at the crest of the ridge. So we schlepped the bags up the hill with me dragging the big raspberry colored bag behind me with my roll-on and carry on bag.

Checking into the hotel, we arranged for a taxi to Kinloch Anderson. The ride to Leith, the dockside district of the city, was a bit reminiscent of the mad SuperShuttle dash we had to LAX on our way to Chile in 2004. We got there in one piece and entered the shop. The salesman pulled out the kilt and accessories that go with it. I had sent measurements and choice of tartan two days previous. On of the salesman’s major functions was to educate me on how to put on the garment, what belts and buckles where, and how to tie the shoes properly.

Throughout all this Jonathan sat watching the proceedings with a bemused tolerance at my enthusiasm for the project. He did get a couple snaps during the fitting process. Although I reminded him that this was likely his last opportunity to try on a kilt, he allowed that this was one of the numerous experiences that he had decided to forgo.

After arranging the delivery to the train next week, we left the shop and went looking for lunch settling on a seafood restaurant “The Ship on the Shore”. I had a smoked salmon sandwich with Cullen skink, a white seafood chowder with smoked fish (haddock I think), potatoes and leeks. Jonathan had a pan roasted salmon and it was all very good.

Returning to the hotel, via a more sedate taxi ride, we took and nap and showered. Later that evening we walked over to the Royal Museum of Scotland where the Tower restaurant is located on the top/5th floor with a nice view of the castle. I had a rib eye steak while Jonathan had calves liver that was perfectly prepared (still a little pink), and for dessert we shared rhubarb and ginger cheesecake.

Walking back, we located the hotel for our return, the Radisson Blu, and extracted some cash from the local ATM. Returning to the hotel, we repaired to the lounge to work on our journals over whiskey.

Click on the images for a larger view

Jonathan sitting in the United lounge in Newark; his new Tilley hat perched on top of his luggage handle.

After being fitted for the kilt, we walked across channel to several water-front restaurants were located.

Evidence. My lunch of smoked salmon sandwich and Cullen skink.

Jonathan trying not to pose for me at dinner in the Tower restaurant.

Edinburgh Castle; one of JK Rowling's inspirations for Hogwarts in the Harry Potter novels.