Oʻahu

03 March

Jonathan’s conference started today, so after breakfast he headed out on foot to the university while I went to Starbucks for coffee and WiFi, and to begin journaling. Jonathan returned for lunch and shortly there after, I met up with Oahu Nature Tours (Natural Highlights of Oahu tour) for the first of three tours I booked for myself while Mr. Lubin talked mathematics and number theory.

After George, the driver and guide, picked up everyone (I was the first) we drove out past Diamond Head, south then east out of Waikiki. The first stop was Hanauma Bay – a protected inlet with a lovely beach and lots of reef to explore. We stayed up on the cliff overlooking the beach. A monk seal had taken up residence at one end of the beach and looked like a deflating brown bag (Jabba the Hutt?) as it basked in the sun. The lifeguards had put up signs warning people to keep their distance (which they were), so the seal had some prime real estate to itself.

The next stop, continuing northeast was the Halona Blowhole – a lava tube that resembles a geyser when the surf hits just right. Fortunately for us the surf was occasionally hitting just right and we could see the effect. I imagine under heavier surf, it would be even more impressive. From the same overlook, looking southwest is a small inlet and beach where the famous scene in Here to Eternity was filmed; northeast is Sandy Beach.

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Hanauma Bay - looking northeast.

Bathers frolicking amid the reef.

Looking southwest.

More reef - looking northeast.

Outside the shelter of the bay, the surf was quite active.

The monk seal with its own end of the beach.

Some of the trees in the park at the top of the cliff.

A couple of figures silhouetted against the sky across the inlet at Halona.

The Halona Blowhole in action.

This fisherman made a hasty retreat from a large swell - he was on the shelf below the overlook.

Sandy Beach - to the northeast of the Halona overlook.

He's back - apparently undeterred by the possibility of being swept into the water.

Eternity Beach - I liked the step-like pattern in the rocks wall over the water.

Continuing northeastward, we reached Makapu‘u Point, looking out over Makapu‘u Beach. While looking out to sea, we spotted humpback whales at a goodly distance off shore. We spotted a number of breaches and jumps. I didn’t attempt any photography due to the distance – it would’ve been like my previous attempts at bird photography “see that dark dot in the middle of the green field… ”? In this case it would’ve been a white spot amidst a (literal) sea of blue.

Makapu‘u Point being the eastern most point on O‘ahu the road turns northwest. At Waimānalo, we walked on Bellows Beach . And north of there we stopped at the Ka‘elepulu Pond a nature reserve where, despite my previous statements about bird photography, I tried to take pictures of a few of the birds.

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The low island in front is Kāohikaipu and the light colored one is Mānana - both are bird sanctuaries.

Makapu‘u Beach.

WWII(?) bunker.

Another fisherman daring the surf.

An unidentified flower at the wayside.

Another unidentified flower at the wayside.

Clouds piling up on the mountain behind Bellows Beach.

The path to Bellows Beach at Waimānalo.

Looking SSE.

Beach, woods, mountain.

Some of the woods backing the beach.

Some more scenic ironwood trees.

A highly specific warning sign.

Yet another unidentified flower.

A red hibiscus (at last! positive ID!).

Hawaiian stilts.

Common moorhen.

Scaevola sericea – Beach Naupaka.

Common moorhen.

Common moorhen: it's the unwebbed feet that give it away.

The last two stops were more cultural. The first was the Ulupō Heiau State Monument, a Hawai‘ian sacred temple. The actual structure is a stone platform, resulting from the careful placement of thousands (millions?) of stones and rocks with no mortar – each stone possessing good spiritual energy (mana?). Only the priests and elite class were permitted onto this expanse of rock. Out of respect for the culture, we did not venture out onto the platform. We did walk around the structure to some taro fields (paddies) downhill from the heiau.

Commission on Historical Sites Plaque:
Ulupō Heiau. One of the temples said to have been built by the mythical menehunes for the worship of the Hawaiian gods. Its size may be estimated by the remaining terrace which is 140 feet wide and 20 feet high. At the NW corner is the menehune pathway leading to a well.
Another plaque:
Ulupō Heiau. Try to imagine the organization and labor needed to build a large, massive heiau (temple) like Ulupō. Hundreds of years ago, rocks were passed and carried here in large numbers by many hands. Some of the rocks were brought from miles away. Rock by rock the heiau was built. The selection of this site and the careful placement of the rocks was overseen by the ali‘i (chief) and kahuna (priest). The heiau was subject to remodeling by a new ruling ali‘i.
Atop this massive rock platform, the kahuna may have conducted ceremonies for healing, success in war, or fertility of the crops and fishing grounds. The features erected for these rituals disappeared after 1819 when the traditional Hawaiian religious system was abolished. Since this time, the stepped terraces of the steep slopes of the heiau have collapsed and been hidden by rock fall.
HELP PRESERVE HAWAII’S PAST FOR THE FUTURE.
As you visit, respect this sacred site. The rocks are unstable. Please walk around, not over the heiau. Here at Ulupō heiau, an ali‘i (chief) could oversee his lands from the mountain to the sea. The people of Kawainui supported his chiefly residence at Kailua, a major political and religious center on O‘ahu. The farmers grew kalo (taro) along the waterways and planted sweet potato and banana on the slopes. The fishermen lay their nets in the bay and an abundance of fish was harvested from the large fishponds of Kawainui and Ka‘elepulu. The kahuna (priest) presided over the several heiau built around Kawainui. The legendary history of Kawainui tells of the menehune, a small people know for building heiau and fishponds in one night. It is said that Kailua was one of the first places on O‘ahu where the menehune arrived and here they built the Ulupō Heiau. Other legends tell of Hauwahine, the guardian spirit or mo‘o of Kawainui. She protected the people and assured an abundance of fish. Hauwahine was a large, lizard-like being who could take the form of a beautiful woman.

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Offerings left at the gate of the heiau.

Noni fruit on the tree.

Kukui or candlenut.

George leading the tour around the back of the heiau.

A taro paddy below the heiau.

A view from the Pali Overlook.

An artist's impression of how it looked then . . . Kaleleka‘anae.

The modern highway with tunnels.

A selected sunset shot (there were dozens...).

Yellow hibiscus.

The mists above Nu‘uanu Pali Overlook

From the heiau, we drove up into the mountains on the Pali Highway to the Nu‘uanu Pali Overlook, the site of a battle between the king of Hawai‘i (as in the big island) and the king of O‘ahu over the desire of the king of Hawai‘i to be king over all the islands. The king of Hawai‘i won, pushing the army of the king of O‘ahu off the cliff. There was a reproduction of a rather graphic painting depicting the event at the lookout. Supposedly when building / rebuilding the road over this pass to Honolulu construction workers found bones – as in hundreds of individuals – and it took them a while to make the connection.

Nu‘uanu Pali Lookout – text below from two Hawai‘i State Parks plaques at the overlook

Pali Road – From Trail to Highway

In the early 1800’s, you had two choices if you wanted to travel between Honolulu and Windward O‘ahu. You could take a canoe trip around the southern end of the island or hike over the steep cliffs of the Ko‘olau mountains. The pali (cliff) trail was the quickest and most direct route, but it was very steep and slippery. Hawaiians travelled the trail with ease but foreigners had a very different experience:“The pass was almost too fearful to be enjoyed. I suffered from apprehension lest I should fall from the rocky slope. I took off my shoes and by setting my feet in the crevices of the rock, I worked myself along, assisted by a native, who saw nothing to wonder at but my awkwardness and fear on passing this grand highway.”Foot Trail: The foot trail was well travelled by people carrying containers of poi, bundles of taro and sweet potatoes, pigs, chickens, and goats to sell in Honolulu. Horse Trail: In 1845, the crowded and dangerous path was widened to six feet. Travel to Honolulu on horse or mule took about 2 hours. Carriage Road: In 1897, a new carriage road was built below the existing trail. Portions of the cliff were blasted to create a 20-foot wide road supported by stone walls. The road now wound around the mountain. Horse and Buggy: A strong wind struck travellers at every turn and for safety, a wooden railing was added. The road was crowded with horses and mules pulling wagons of sugar, bananas, rice and fish to market in Honolulu.Highway: The carriage road handed the transition to car with little change in the 1950’s. The construction of the four-lane highway we travel today included excavation of the tunnels. This highway was completed in 1957.

Battle of Nu‘uanu
In the late 1700’s, Kamehameha I from the island of Hawai‘i, sought to unite all the Hawaiian Islands under one rule. The battle began with the arrival of his forces at Waikīkī in 1795. O‘ahu had been defeated by Maui forces a decade earlier and Maui’s Chief Kalanikūpule now lead the forces on O‘ahu. After many hard-fought battles, he was driven up Nu‘uanu Valley to this location. Both sides fought with Hawaiian spears and Western firearms but Kamehameha’s cannon gave him the winning advantage.The battle, called Kaleleka‘anae (leaping of ‘anae fish), refers to the men forced off the cliff during the conflict. An estimated 400 warriors died in this battle. With Kamehameha’s victory on O‘ahu and signing of an agreement with Chief Kaumuali‘i of Kaua‘i, he became the first king of the Hawaiian Islands.

After getting back to the hotel, I walked over to the Ala Moana Park to join the mathematicians at a picnic at sundown.