The flat Canterbury plains.
We met up the next morning in the lobby with our fellow walkers, Tom Sandoz, Jim and Pat Creswell, and our guide, Nicky Snoyink. We had one unhappy surprise when the Hondru’s (Joyce and Bryan) arrived, as Bryan had torn up his knee skiing earlier in the week and they wouldn’t be able to join us. They came down to see us off and wish us well on our journey.
Nicky drove the little bus, seating about 15, out of Christchurch and across the Canterbury plains towards the Southern Alps. The land is flat and thoroughly farmed. The plains are in the rain shadow of the Southern Alps so the rainfall is limited, although there are several glacially fed rivers that cross the plain, flowing eastward into the Pacific. We spotted the river we were following west from our flight into Christchurch a couple of days earlier and understood when Nicky described them as “braided rivers.” The grey gravel riverbed was extremely wide, similar to some of the washes (e.g. the Tujunga wash) in the Los Angeles area. The blue-green water only occupies a fraction of the riverbed (except when flooding) in small meandering channels that resemble a braid.
We climbed through the foothills as cultivation gave way to livestock - sheep and some cattle. Various stations (ranches) occupied the valley floor, extending up the slopes of the surrounding mountainsides.
We stopped at the Kura Tawhiti Conservation Area which is a place held sacred by the Maori. Sacred is probably not the right word as the collection of unusually shaped boulders served as a way station for the Maori on their way to the west coast to prospect for green stone. So the place is held in some regard for the heritage of the Maori and therefore preserved. We walked among the boulders while Nicky described the rock climbing that was a popular use for the site before it received protected status in 1991. We paused for a picnic lunch in the leeward side of a boulder (as it gusty and breezy). Rock climbers still use the spot, however, they can no longer drive bolts into the rock faces anymore. There were a few folks climbing while we were there.
The flat Canterbury plains.
The foothills become visible around Springfield.
Snow covered mountains are very much in evidence as we drive on into the Southern Alps.
Rocks to one side of the Kura Tawhiti Conservation area.
Jonathan pauses for a photo.
Walking up the trail to the boulders.
Just like Chile, there are dandelions in New Zealand. No, they are not native.
The leaves are the tight green growth around the stems, protected by the inch-long thorns.
An interestingly shaped boulder - but you could describe most of the formations as 'interesting.'
Kura Tawhiti.
Hiking up into the boulders - they were very large as the picture indicates.
They were also very high. Above Nicky's outstretched hand is the row of trees that line the path as it leaves the highway.
Pat and Jim, with Jonathan at the top of the formation.
Another view of the formation.
After lunch we finished our circum-perambulation of the boulder field and hopped back on the bus. We drove a few minutes further west until we reached the Broken River ski area, where we left the bus and walked up the road to the ski area until we reached the trailhead to Lyndon Saddle. The forest along the road and trail was southern beech (Nothofagus) without much variety. The trail lead steadily upward and I was breathing heavily frequently until we’d periodically stop to take a rest. The views didn’t open up until we reached the saddle. Until then we were in the forest with the shafts of sunlight piercing the canopy periodically. There were wood boxes, a bit larger than a shoebox, placed on the forest floor. These were traps for stoats and other exogenous species that have wrecked havoc on the bird species of New Zealand. (Prior to the arrival of man, ~1000 years ago, the only mammals in New Zealand were bats - all the ecological niches were filled by bird species.)
Upon reaching the saddle, the views opened up on both sides. While admiring the views, we were joined by a kea, an alpine parrot known for their bold and mischievous ways. I couldn’t get my camera ready fast enough to catch a picture of him in flight as he approached us, as the feathers on the underside of his wings are red, while the rest of him was a subdued green. He perched at the top of the small tree we were standing beside and he began to eye a couple of our packs on the ground. The kea is known to get into such treasures in search of food. After a minute or two, he climbed down through the branches to the ground to get closer to the packs. We (the six walkers and the bird) eyed each other for a while, hoping for the kea to emerge were I could get a better photo of him, but he stayed in the bushes.
The leaves of the southern beech (Nothofagus).
The sun dappled path - the bright sun combined with the shade made photography in the forest difficult.
Lined up in a clearing appreciating the view are Jim, Pat, Jonathan, Tom, and Nicky.
And this is the view being appreciated.
When we reached Lyndon Saddle, the views opened up on both sides.
A continuation of the previous view.
A look to the other side.
Jonathan collects a snapshot.
The far peak looked like it was covered in gray gravel.
A kea (Nestor notabilis) pays us a visit.
I didn't get the name of this plant either, but I liked the contrasting colors.
Nicky leading us on the path down the hill to the bus.
Nicky pointing out a fern variety (and there were many!). Alas, I didn't record this one either.
So we began our descent back to the bus on the other leg of the trail, which was a trial on my knees. There wasn’t much level trail on this part of the loop.
Once the loop returned to the valley floor, the path leveled and we were back at the bus.
From there we drove to our lodgings at the Wilderness Lodge Arthur’s Pass, which is located on a working sheep station. Dropping our bags in our rooms, we walked down the hill to the shearing shed where we received a primer on wool and watched a sheep shearing demonstration on an ewe while we held her lamb. Once the fleece had been removed, Neil (the farm manager) processed the fleece, pulling various portions off, tossing them into separate bins. When he was done, he had ~3kg of wool.
The sheep show continued at one of the fields where Neil demonstrated how to run sheep dogs. He had two very friendly sheep dogs that, at his direction with shouts and whistle, brought the sheep over to the gate. The other dog collected three bulls and did the same exercise, bringing them to the gate.
As we approached Arthur's Pass, the clouds were stacked up on the mountains.
It looked as if the rain and clouds would sweep down the valley, but they stayed over the peaks.
Jonathan taking in the view from the bus.
This was the view out our hotel window.
A buttercup on the grounds of the lodge.
I like this photo for the relative scales…
…the individuals in the foreground, the powerlines in the mid-ground and then the mountains with their clouds and mists forming the backdrop. I believe that's Nicky, Tom, Pat, and Jim (L to R).
The ewe was quite docile during the entire 'sheep show.'
Afterward, we returned to our rooms for a shower and to freshen up for dinner. Jonathan and I, as usual, worked on our journals while waiting for the rest of the Walkers to join us. The lodge offered star gazing that evening, but unfortunately for me, I was fading rapidly and since it as rather cool outside, I went to bed and fell sound asleep. Jonathan did go and reported that there were enough clouds to make stargazing difficult.