Remnants of the mills in the gorge below Ronda.
Today’s itinerary consisted of a half-day city walk and the remaining half we were on our own. We met our guide, Diego, in the hotel lobby. The first stop was the walkway around the parador that overlooks the gorge El Tajo, and is spanned by the Puente Nuevo. We had walked across the bridge a couple of times the night before, first was while waiting for dinner, Jonathan and I did a little walking up and down the main drag in front of the hotel to keep from getting stiff. The second time was when we walked across with the group to the restaurant for dinner in an establishment perched directly on the edge of the gorge with lots of windows. I opted for a table back from the windows. For an appetizer I ordered an almond soup, ajoblanco, which was a mixture of finely ground almonds, garlic and olive oil (and to my taste, probably some vinegar or lemon juice) and it was delicious. The main was tuna in a yogurt sauce, also very good, although I couldn’t finish it. I think the 12 mile walk caught up with me and I was fading fast, so Jonathan and I made our excuses and went back to the hotel and hit the sack.
Diego led us by the restaurant and to the Plaza del Campanilla with a path down to two ancient arches that were part of the wall built in the Moorish era to defend the mills that were located in the gorge. The arches were called the Door of the Mills and the Door of the Wind. From there we went to the Palacio de Mondragón, which dates from 1314. Some elements of that period can sill be made out, both the building was altered by its subsequent occupants.
The next stop was the Plaza Duquesa de Parcent, which is bordered by multiple churches and the cathedral, Iglesia de Santa Maria la Mayor. The cathedral lives up to its name with the veneration of Mary predominant everywhere with the crucifixion taking a decidedly secondary role. My favorite pice of artwork was a fresco painted in the 1980’s, which had the Last Supper with all women – a delightfully subversive concept.
Remnants of the mills in the gorge below Ronda.
Looking across the gorge from our hotel window. We took that trail on the far side in the afternoon.
Looking the other way at a gazebo and observation point.
Diego, on the right, with a rapt audience of Joyce, Marilyn, Joel, Judy, Harvey, Janet, Oakley, and Caroline.
Teague listening to Diego.
Puente Nuevo - I got some better shots later in the day from different locations.
Used as a prison in the civil war, the Falangists would execute prisoners by throwing them off the bridge.
Last night's restaurant was in the 'Old Town' section of buildings on the gorge.
Looking back across at the Parador Ronda.
An architectural detail that captured my attention.
At the Plaza del Campanilla - only Marilyn and Jonathan can be seen clearly.
The Door of the Mills and the Door of the Winds.
Palacio de Mondragón.
Some more example of the Arab / Moorish use of water in gardens.
A horseshoe arch looking into the gardens.
A bunch of Country Walkers in the courtyard.
Some of the original tilework preserved.
Some of the original plaster moldings - a pattern very similar to the one used as the background for this travelogue.
Jonathan checking out his latest snapshot.
Iglesia de la Santa Maria la Mayor: The bell tower was originally the minaret of the mosque.
The 'lower' arch is actually a reflection in a mirror to allow visitors to see the original decorations in the minaret.
More molding.
The church was dedicated to Mary, and it showed.
More Mary.
The crescent in front of her is a carryover from Aphrodite or other goddesses whose feet rested on a crescent moon.
An altarpiece showing the Annuciation.
Taking a break from the Virgin to show some of the vaulting.
Another figure of Mary with the cresecent moon.
These frescos were more contemporary additions - I liked their style.
The Last Supper; the bishop was apparently losing his sight and didn't notice it's all women.
Another fresco.
A complete shot of the altar piece.
Another Annunciation - this time in bronze relief.
I liked this shot as the lines of the arch and the dome merge to form an extending curl.
Waiting outside the church - Joel, Ralph, Rich (obscured), and Joyce.
Also waiting - Nick, Oakley, Nadji, Rita (back to camera), Marilyn, and Judy.
Balconies and flowers.
Alley of the Truants - named for the folks slipping out of church.
The truants.
We then walked by a minaret – apparently part of a house now. When the Christians conquered cities and towns from the Muslims, they would convert the mosques to churches. The usual pattern was to first use the existing building, then as resources became available, tear it down and build a church on the site. In the case of Santa Maria la Mayor, the minaret of the mosque was converted to the bell tower while the rest of the building was torn down and replaced with a Gothic cathedral. Later, the mosque’s courtyard and fountain was replaced with a Renaissance style extension of the church.
The tour continued through the old city where the next stop was the Casa del Rey Moro (House of the Moorish King) which is a bit misleading as it was built in the 1700’s, long after the Moors were expelled in the 1500’s. Diego did point out that the site had a stairway down to the river in the gorge, and it was the taking of this access to water that had caused the fall of Ronda to the Christians.
Continuing down (literally) that street, we passed the arch of Fillipe V and came to the “Old Bridge”, built by the Moors, connecting the old city with the new city. Visible below was the Roman bridge and the Arab baths used by the working class Moors. About three-quarters of the group walked down to the bridge and bath, while Jonathan and I stayed up at the Old Bridge. Also visible from the Old Bridge is a church that was built on the site of the local synagogue. Upon their expulsion in 1492, the synagogues suffered the same fate as the mosques.
From the bridge we climbed through gardens overlooking the gorge with me making a point to stay away from the edge. And from there, we went back into the new city where we were dismissed for the day.
We wandered about until we found a likely restaurant where we had a very pleasant lunch starting with mushrooms. I had venison and Jonathan had a veal cutlet that looked like half the cow.
A house that incorporated a minaret into its structure.
A cat overseeing our walk.
Pausing for a moment.
Note the four carved figures representing New World indians.
A view out into the countryside.
The new city looking over the 'Old Bridge'.
The Roman Bridge (older than the Old Bridge), synagogue, and the Arab baths (roughly centered in image).
Gardens along the gorge.
Looking down into the gorge.
An artist working with his watercolors.
Jonathan heading up the street to the entry to the gardens.
Looking through the arch of the Old Bridge to the Roman Bridge.
The Old Bridge seen from the gardens.
An observation deck (with two occupants) at the bottom of the gorge.
Jonathan taking in the sights from the Old Bridge.
Another view from the gardens towards the Old Bridge.
Looking up the gorge.
Harvey and Deena.
The New Bridge - Puente Nuevo.
A detail of the Puente Nuevo - at the base.
A stairway to the base of the gorge.
Listening to Diego.
Another view of the arches - the Door of the Mills and Door of the Winds.
Looking back towards the Parador.
Jonathan coming down the trail.
Rock formations.
Probably my best shot of the Puente Nuevo, complete with waterfall below.
The gazebo and view point (see shot early in this sequence).
A hillside orchard.
Cloud formations in the evening.
After lunch, we took the winding trail down towards the arches (Door of the Mills and the Winds) from the Plaza del Campanilla, but found the way blocked by construction. We passed Oakley and Nadji, who had found a way around it, but we opted to take a couple of snaps and climb back up. There was a farmhouse with a homemade sign to “vista del puente” on the way so we poked our heads in there and found an excellent alternative to the vantage point the arches offered. Upon climbing the stairs, we adjourned to the bar on the plaza for beer (me) and coffee (Jonathan).
We returned to our room for journal writing and siesta. Unfortunately shortly thereafter I became very sick with what we suspect was food poisoning. Skipping the unpleasant details of the next six hours, it was an uncomfortable night.