Launceston,
Tamar River Valley

14 November

My bridge (Kings Bridge) in Launceston

We met John at 0930 in the morning for the day’s exploration. A short walk up the street to the Kings Bridge was the jumping off point for the visit to the Cataract Gorge. Rather than walk up the path, John brought us around by car to the First Basin where we circumambulated the basin while chatting with John about Launceston history, vegetation, peacocks, floods, and eventually coffee.

Cataract Gorge
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Looking up the Cataract Gorge from Kings Bridge.

The coloration of the rock at/above the waterline shows the tidal draw here, although it's 43 miles inland.

The orginal toll house and toll-taker's house - now used for a municipal artist-in-residence.

Kings Bridge is actually two bridges. A second identical bridge adjacent to the first to expand.

Kings Bridge.

The park at First Basin. We rode the funicular railway down. It would have been faster to take the steps.

Pedestrian suspension bridge over the river where it enters the First Basin.

Close up of the bridge.

More violets (Viola hederacea).

Welcome swallow (Hirundo neoxena).

The view from the First Basin down towards Launceston.

From the north side, looking back across the basin.

John pointing out a peacock high in the tree.

A peacock high in the tree.

Looking down on the pedestrian suspension bridge from an observation deck above.

Across the bridge.

Bridge supports drilled into the rock.

Black cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo).

Blue wren (Malurus cyaneus) - it didn't stay still long enough for my camera to get a good focus.

More unfocused blue wren.

The view of the Tamar River valley from Brady's Lookout

Heading north along the West Bank of the Tamar River - an estuary with a tidal draw in Launceston of 4.5 meters (13 1/2 feet) which is 28 miles inland. We drove through a Swiss village and stopped at Brady’s Lookout to look out over the river valley. We stopped at the “Beehive” where we sampled honey and whiskey and I bought a flat tin of Professor Edward J. Fuzzworthy’s Gentleman’s Beard Care Gloss - at Jonathan’s urging - for moustache care.

John took roads that took us alongside the river through small communities where spring had the gardens in bloom. We had lunch at the Tamar Café (curried sausage special for me). Afterwards we stopped into thePlatypus House to learn more about the creatures that inhabit all of Tasmania’s freshwater rivers and streams. They had one large male and three females in residence and I spent a lot of camera video of them in the water. Also in residence were three echidna/spiny anteaters, living in a large room with plants, logs, and other items of echidna-interest. Our guide put down food dishes so we could see the critters a bit more closely and walking around our feet after their meal, frequently between our legs.

On our way back to town we crossed the Batman Bridge (not named after the Caped Crusader) and returned down the east side of the river. Returning to the hotel, we’re getting ready to head out to Hallam’s Waterfront Restaurant for dinner.

2018.11.16.1830 Stillwater (Wine Bar and Restaurant), Launceston Tasmania

Hallam’s Seafood Restaurant, also located on the waterfront, has a much more nautical feel to the decor compared to the contemporary Mudbar, with blond wood finishes and wooden boats - a rowing skull and an dinghy - hanging from the ceiling. We agreed that the food was good but a shade shy of what we experienced the previous night, but the ambiance was superior in our opinion. We split a bottle of another Tassie Pinot noir - Goaty Hill - Jonathan got half dozen oysters and what amounted to tempura fish and chips. I ordered three small plates - (1) white fish ceviche, ginger + lime dressing, ruby grapefruit, radish, coriander, fresh chili + crispy shallots, (2) Tasmanian seared scallops, Jerusalem artichoke pur´ee, chorizo, sage + chili oil, and (3) tempura tiger prawns with sweet chili (heartburn city). We split dessert - lemon + lime curd, tamarind chantilly, five spice coconut crumble with smashed raspberry meringue.

Tamar River Valley
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Turbo chook (Tribonyx mortierii), a/k/a Tasmanian native hen.

Tamar River Valley as seen from Brady's Lookout.

Map of the valley.

Thistle.

Some intricate iron work at the Beehive.

Across the Tamar at Beauty Point, piles of chipped wood for paper making.

Platypus at the Platypus House - the docent reported that she liked to use the stick to steady her underwater.

The Batman Bridge from underneath.

Fishing on the river.

Our Pinot noir for the evening.

White fish ceviche, ginger + lime dressing, ruby grapefruit, radish, coriander, fresh chili + crispy shallots.

Tasmanian seared scallops, Jerusalem artichoke purée, chorizo, sage + chili oil.

Jonathan's oysters.

Platypus (Ornithorhynchus anatinus) (20 MB video, 33sec).

Short-beaked echidna (Tachyglossus aculeatus)/Spiny anteater (48 MB video, 1:19).

Sunset in Launceston